
Class. 
Book 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 




Copyright, 1896, by Mrs. Kate Bode. 






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perhaps it is not possible, wholly to realize, as we drift along 
the busy stream of Oriental life, that we have not been translated 
to a strange land. Buildings have been evolved, and others 
shaped out of semblance to their original design, wherever and 
whenever possible, with pagan architecture and imagery. It is 
here and there only that portions of solid masonry remain which 
have defied the sons of Confucius to mar; and some solemn 
griffin, or gargoyle carving, is yet imbedded beneath cornice, 
or gracing some Corinthian colonnade, as if looking down in 
apparent sadness at its own strange environment, reminding us 
that but a comparatively brief period has elapsed since dwelt 
here those hardy pioneers whose bending forms are only occa- 
sionally seen visiting the old haunts, rich in pathetic and tragical 
episodes and heroic deeds of a half century ago. 

Here the visitor is apt to regard the encroachment which 
the Chinese have made on the acreage of this section of the 
city as an interesting phenomenon, from a single primitive 
"wash-house," erected as a necessity on Portsmouth Square, 
now known as the Plaza, until this quarter now comprises over 
fifteen blocks of houses, wholly within the city limits, and 
wherein, as near as can be computed, about fifty thousand 
Chinese reside and do business, and, like the glacier of the 
north, still spreads and moves on. Fortunately, the salt ocean 



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"THUMB-NAIL" SKETCHES. 











breeze sweeps over it, and the terraced condi- 
tion of this quarter renders drainage a natural 
condition as well as a scientific achievement. 

Among Oriental nations, pagan and christian- 
ized, the commercial instinct is strongly developed. 
As our tourist strolls along the main thorough- 
fare, with its lines of bazaars, the picturesqueness 
of which is enhanced by elegantly decorated silk 
embroideries and draperies temptingly displayed 
for sale, ebony-carved cabinets rich in design 
and ornamentation, and fit to hold the wealth 
of " Ormus and of Ind," bronzes, cloisonne ware 
and many other objects of exquisite beauty and 
workmanship meet the eye ; and, with a constant 
stream of tourists from all parts of the world 
daily visiting this mecca, he realizes that there is 
an active participation of the busy scenes of life 
going on here, notwithstanding its antique and 
Oriental aspect. 

If the service of a guide has not been pro- 
cured at the hotel, you will not be lost in the 
tangled maze of narrow streets and dubious 
labyrinth of bad-smelling alleyways, for the 



denizens of this quarter thoroughly appreciate the desire which 
prevails to penetrate and investigate the inner life of their 
people. Solicitations are made, at every crossing, to guide and 
conduct you to the various shrines and objects of curiosity 
which abound here ; they seem to alight on the pilgrim intuitively, 
and vie with each other in an exaggeration , of promises rarely 
fulfilled. It is delightful to watch the tactics of these subtle 
fellows, — the ingenious harangue, their skill in unmasking the 
stranger, their epigrammatic rendition of the sights to be seen. 
They learn each other's tricks and the usual line of approach in 
dealing with a " tenderfoot " or European tourist. A wily 
looking fellow approached us one evening, and, after delivering 
the usual prelude to excite our curiosity, actually showed us a 
glimpse of his return certificate, issued by. the powers that be 
at the Custom House, and, with a suavity and blandness of 
manner really amusing, assured us that it was a special license 
granted to ply his vocation as guide, for services rendered to 
the Government. " All Melica man know Charlie ; heep good 
guide 1 Twenty-six years Chinatown 1" It is perhaps superfluous 
to state that, with ew exceptions, they are adept in all guileful 
arts, crafty, knavish and suspicious. 

Stroll where you will you meet on every side evidences of 
another and departed regime, and find curious studies, many of 




"ON THE LOOKOUT." 
i Where the Deadly Highbinder Holds Forth. 







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ii which are calculated to amuse and instruct 

the traveler, for the personality of this 

concourse of people is difficult to describe 

and analyze. One must be brought into actual touch 

to appreciate the varied character found here, the variety 



of things to admire and to wonder at, others to ponder over, 
and all of them interesting. It does not seem possible that you 
can stroll block after block without encountering a single Christian 
place of business in this quarter, yet so it is. You will wonder 
how and why there has been such a transfiguration in this 
heritage ; you will realize, however, by the compass of your stroll, 
that you are obtaining a visit to China without being obliged to 
cross the Pacific, or wrestle with that much-dreaded monster, 
seasickness. You will investigate narrow, serpentine passages 
under ground and above ground, to unfathom which it will be 
necessary to have an experienced and trustworthy guide ; you 
will review scores of opium joints beneath stained and 
cobwebbed frescoes, and hear the click of the domino in the 
game of pi-gou as you pass the broad but scarred and battered 
portal of what was once some stately dwelling; you will meet 
at intervals athletic looking officials in disguise, reconnoitering 









up some dark, foul-smelling, tortuous passage, or escalading 
some perilous roof to cut off the retreat from a game of fan 
tan, or sup choy, in full blast in the vicinity, and the approach 
to which is guarded by an array of formidable barriers and 
sesames, as only the cunning Chinese can develop or their 
ingenuity create. 

At a prominent corner near the farther end of the main 
thoroughfare, you will find a building, the history of which dates 
back half a century ago, now a ruined pile of weather-beaten 
brick. Neither its interior nor exterior has felt the touch of 
brush or trowel for many, many years. The work of subjugation 
has been done, and this ancient, crumbling, interesting landmark 
known as the Globe Hotel now shelters the flotsam and jetsam 
of, Chinatown. Everything is steeped to the lips in the spirit 
of paganism, and by its exterior only do we recognize the 
features and individualities of days dead and gone. Its four 
stories lift up, row upon row of carved and highly elaborated 
pediments; and from its upper windows the belfric towers of 
St. Francis of Assissium, and the spires of Senora de Guadaloupe, 
at the northern extremity of this quarter, are. plainly visible, 
whilst Mount Tamalpais may be viewed across the Bay in a 
warp of woven sunshine, guarding, sentinel-like, the approach 
to the entrance of the Golden Gate, and sheltering the flower 






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. decked homes of Sausalito and 
San Rafael; and farther away to 
the right, and beneath the deserted citadel at the 
summit of Telegraph Hill, the Straits of Carquinez 
glisten like a silver bar in the morning light; and the 
majestic double head of Mount Diablo lifts in hazy 
distance from the purple maze and tender tints which embosom 
the lovely stretch of landscape called the Ignacio Valley; and 
in the history of this once important structure is found the 
record of feud and strife, love and romance, of the ever-shifting 
scenes enacted in 

" The days of old, 
The days of gold, 
The days of 'Forty-nine." 

Not less interesting, and not far from this corner, is a ruined 
portal, conspicuous in the fact that here resided Madam Ah Toy, 
the first Chinese woman to grace these shores with her 
presence. She was evidently a lady of wealth and high caste, 
of rare attainments, simple sincerity, and of intellect keen and 
discriminating, gifted with uncommon foresight, and at whose 
receptions and levees the ecclesiastical and political savant of 
the hour would meet, and at whose tea parties it was considered 
a rare privilege and honor to be invited. It was her influence 
that prompted the then resident Chinese to accept the invitation 






to actively participate in the ceremonies, held with such eclat, to 
commemorate the admission of California into the Union, in 
18^0. This must be regarded as particularly noteworthy. The 
thinness of population and smallness of trade at that time, allied 
to the isolated locality of San Francisco, rendered every effort to 
open up foreign trade a desideratum; and many propositions 
were entertained that would lead to more extended commercial 
relations with the Orient; so it was especially by our own 
solicitation that we have now safely harbored here the active, 
competing foreign element which has created so much discussion 
and argument on the political horizon, and upon whom it has 
been considered necessary for our well-being to levy the 
Restriction Act, now so called. 

I had always a desire to visit this spot, and shall never 
forget my first impression of this quarter. It has been my 
privilege since then to visit it again and again, — I might say, 
almost to reside there; and, in the light of what has been revealed 
to me through many later observations, I consider it was a rare 
opportunity that permitted the witnessing of a spectacle which 
no subsequent picture has approached, either in color or 
arrangement. 

It was in February, and the rain which had been deluging 
the land had abated near midnight. The Feast of Lanterns was 








CHINESE JOSS HOUSE. 
(Afternoon.) 







TME MOUSING OF A PAGAN GOD 




on the programme, and the housing 
of the Pagan Deities, a ceremony 
of rare occurrence, was to be con- 
summated that evening. It was with the expec- 
tation of seeing something new and • strange 
in aspect that induced me to wend my way 
through the damp and deserted avenues of 
approach, while dark, lowering rainclouds threat- 
ened ominously overhead. We ascended the 
tower of old St. Mary's Cathedral, situated at 
the first terrace-rising, and from its summit 
the mellow tint which welled up against the black, starless 
background melted away in the tremulous wide scene of 
ten thousand more of decorated, lighted lanterns, strung in 
graceful abandon from column portal and balcony, down the 
gradual incline, and as slowly rising again until the farther 
extremity of this undulating perspective was reached, terrace 
upon terrace lifted out from this central line, illuminating in 
turn myriads of window gardens, gilded oriels and arabesque 
balconies. The undulating character of the land lent additional 
beauty to this fairy-like panorama. I could hardly restrain my 
delight ; it was so unlike anything I had ever seen before. 
Whilst enjoying this midnight feast there slowly entered upon 






the main avenue a procession heralded by an orchestra of 
clashing cymbals, unmusical tom-toms, and gaily decked fiddlers, 
followed by a retinue of priests in long, showy silken robes 
and bright vestments, who alternately chanted, with peculiar 
intonation and inflation, mystic " canzoni " or sacred lays, which 
tradition tells us were sung two thousand years before the 
christian era. The aristocracy of wealth were there in royal 
habiliments, each representative carrying frames of burning 
punks and brass talismans ; and high upon a gorgeous, sculp- 
tured throne, which was borne by forty or more men in fantastic 
garb, sat in stoic indifference, beneath flaunting dragons, the 
divinities of the heathen pantheon, amid a wealth of tinsel and 
elaborate gildings. 

j This procession came up the main thoroughfare, and, as it 
traversed again and became lost to view, it seemed from my 
dizzy height more like a dreamy symphonic arrangement of 
color than the actual presentment of an Oriental ceremony 
enacted within the framing of these historic precincts. 

We now enter a short street rich in reminiscences ; here the 
first residence was built ; and we immediately come to a charm- 
ing study of a dwelling with a corinthian colonnade supporting 
a balcony of odd design in rich translucent green, peculiarly 
Chinese. It is unusually well preserved for this quarter, and 







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is pointed out as once the residence of 
a prominent member of the vigilance 
committee which operated here with such crushing 
force in the suppression of the lawless bandits who 
wished to overthrow rule and order in 18^6. It is now 
devoted to the use of one of the many Chinese benevolent 
societies as a pantheon, and is regarded as one of the 
sights of this quarter. Its upper floors enshrine the Gods, 
while suspended in boxes along the corridors are numbers 
of deified warriors, heroes and sages, in attitudes as if 
trampling victorious over some prostrate foe ; while concealed 
springs cause them automatically to flourish javelins and other 
warlike weapons of cruel design. Semi-annual banquets are 
served here to the promoters of the association, and on these 
occasions, from an improvised niche, the usual orchestra accom- 
pany from midday until midnight a sort of recitative, relieved 
at intervals with a sforzando movement that creates din sufficient 
to raise the firmament ; while the admiring canaille read from 
large paper curtains of deep vermilion dye, hanging outside, the 
names of the contributors and their respective donations to this 
association, and of the evil spirits that have been controlled 
under their incantations and exorcisms. 'The terrifying effigies 
of two of these devils are placed on high and exposed to view, 






and made to face the rising sun every morning during ceremonial 
week. When adequate expiation has been made, and they have 
been sufficiently rebuked- in this novel manner, by comparison 
to the orb of day, they are forcibly projected at midnight from 
the balcony above to the street pavement, where the exorcist or 
devil-killer works for several hours, with numerous curses, 
written in red ink upon yellow paper, which he then burns on 
a porcelain plate, and the ashes stirred into a cup of water. 
With his mouth filled with this holy water, a trident in one 
hand, and in the other an engraved bit of wood, weighty with 
virtue for the overthrow of these demons that vex the good 
Chinaman's peace and happiness, he stamps around, thrusting 
and brandishing his trident, holding aloft his magic wand, 
spurting water from his mouth in every direction, commanding 
the devils in his loudest voice to depart, yelling and howling 
until the first streak of light breaks the horizon, when these 
effigies are incinerated with additional hubbub and their ashes 
scattered from brazen vessels to the morning breeze. 

Each succeeding decade has given this street additional 
history. It was originally called Calle de las Rosas, in honor 
of its many rose-covered cottages. From here Jhe pioneers 
viewed with delight the illumined tips of Telegraph and Russian 
hills, which augured the sighting of some expected ship that 







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would bring them again in touch with distant hearts after, many 
months of weary and anxious waiting ; for the waters yet ebbed 
and flowed at Montgomery Street, and the deep golden esch- 
scholtzia, nature's floral beacon and emblem of the illimitable 
wealth in this el dorado, was not yet shorn nor ruthlessly 
riven from its native bed in the sand dunes above in the rush 
for greed and gain which subsequently followed. 

A decade later and these delightful and cherished homes 
were subjected to a transformation : a reign of the demi-monde 
was inaugurated, and the name of Pike Street was substituted for 
the euphonious Calle de las Rosas. Under this baneful regime its 
notoriety soon echoed to the base of the Rockies. There are 
associated with this era many sensational, episodes of good 
deeds and heinous crimes. Particularly characteristic 
C^1^f > and worthy of repetition is that story where the 
^v "soul of goodness is mixed with things evil," and 
which has but recently reached its final 
tableau, after the curtain had been rung 
down and the dramatis persona? had left 
the stage of action five and thirty years ago 




It is told that the young and beautiful daughter of 

a wealthy Parisian, who had loved, "not wisely, 

NfiftiE^^ but too well," and had to flee the paternal 






wrath, made her advent in 'Frisco when the gold fever was at 
its zenith. Her youth, extraordinary beauty and dashing style 
created much admiration, and, being a person in fine, with 
natural and acquired tastes and propensities, she readily obtained 
an entr&e into the best society of that day. With a charm of 
manner rivaled only by the accomplishments of her mind, she 
successfully essayed the role of an adventuress, and by her 
wily intrigues soon amassed a small fortune. Her true character 
being revealed, she was soon forsaken, and drifted to this street, 
where she plunged into a career of reckless abandon. 

The finding of her body in the ransacked boudoir of her 
dwelling, with the imprint of a brawny hand upon her delicate 
neck, plainly told its story, and was the sensation of the day. 
Her male associate was held, and the evidence, although purely 
circumstantial, seemed incriminatory, when another deed, simi- 
larly perpetrated, for the same purpose and upon a like 
character, was discovered in the valley of the Sacramento River. 

No direct clue was unearthed to either of these atrocities 
until, at one of those Bohemian socials so prevalent in that 
early day, there was lost, and found, a diamond bracelet, on 
the reverse side of which was chased this inscription: 

A notre fille, 

(Marie Tlanier. 







It was a souvenir from the parents 
of the unfortunate Parisienne on attain- 
ing her majority ; it was returned to the 
claimant, a lady, who little dreamt that 
in establishing her right to this cluster 
of diamonds she had unconsciously 
raised the curtain upon the participants 
of this drama, and exposed to view the 
perpetrator of both of these crimes, and 
who was none other than her own 
husband. The arrested consort of the Parisienne was released 
and soon after reached Paris, where he succeeded in obtaining 
possession of, and lived in fine style upon, the income of his 
dead mistress' property, to the exclusion of the child she had left 
behind, and for whose education and welfare she had sacrificed 
her honor and very life. 

During all this time San Francisco was undergoing its 
wonderful transformation : the city was spreading beyond the 
hills ; the old-fashioned little cottages, and the mountain goats 
that browsed around the flinty heights of Nob Hill, were 
disturbed by the advent of the cable car ; magnificent and 
palatial mansions were being erected thereon, and what was at 
one time a fashionable center soon became the habitation of 



the incoming Mongolians. With this third transformation came 
the name of Waverly Place. The gay characters who had flitted 
here for over a decade sought other pastures, and the Chinese 
took possession of the street. With the date of their advent we 
enter upon the second part of this sensational drama. 

Under the shadows of two cathedrals, Grace and St. Mary's, 
stood the cottage where the unfortunate Parisienne dwelt. It 
had now passed into the possession of the Chinese, who felt 
that the time was opportune for the erection of a pagan temple 
that would vie with its stately christian sisters, gracefully and 
strikingly imposed upon the terrace beyond. 

In the removal of this cottage was unearthed' a box con- 
taining title deeds to valuable property in Paris from Marie Banier 
to her son, Perrier Banier, and a certificate of deposit for a 
princely sum of money in bank. This information soon reached 
Paris, where it was learned that the legacy of her early love 
had now grown to man's estate. By the accidental discovery 
of these papers he was enabled to receive this long buried and 
now resurrected tribute of maternal devotion. 

Further along this street, just at the corner, there has been 
erected a small Protestant church, to do battle, as it were, with 
the number of divinities of the heathen Pantheon ensconced 
along the line, a Lilliput among the Brobdinags. A few Chinese 




A VIEW OF BARTLETT ALLEY. 




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FISH-MA RK.ET MEMORANDA. 




under its influence have dared to emancipate themselves 
from conventional . mannerisms, and enthusiastically seek 
proselytes even at the very doors of the sanctuaries 
where the orthodox Chinese worship. No one but a 
person who has lived in China can form any idea -^ ^ 
of the hindrances in the way of christianizing ^ &- r "^IIE=r=3 
the native residents. Three things are responsible for i ^VJ 
this, says a recent convert, " the worshiping of ancestors of 
idols, and the fear of the. Chinese that the Christians wish to 
destroy the native customs and traditions, and eventually 
enthrall them." Filial reverence and obedience are characteristic 
traits of the Chinese. These sentiments extend beyond the grave; 
so that, when parents die, prayers are addressed to them as 
guardian spirits. By them the subordination of individual rights 
to those of the family is regarded as a fundamental and irrev- 
ocable principle; hence every Chinaman, in forsaking paganism, 
must obtain the consent of his family if he wishes assurance 
from future proscription. Every divinity is endowed with 
certain characteristics, and the embodiment of some special 
function or attribute of humanity, the unvarying belief in the 
existence and personality of their deities, upon whose active 
agency their votaries rely, is, without doubt, the underlying 
principle of their superstition. 



The Chinaman is a great believer in spirits, particularly 
those with an evil disposition. His upper world is peopled by 
Gods and his under world by multitudes of devils. Incense is 
freely burned before the household shrine, and fervent and divers 
prayers are continually offered to rid their houses of these 
unwelcome visitors. 

Among the peculiar features of paganism there is none 
more revolting than the cruelty practiced upon young girls, 
based upon a system of slavery. It is a prolific source of cor- 
ruption and degradation, and has had much license in this 
quarter. 

The profound pity felt for these unhappy victims, who, 
from ignorance, adverse conditions of heredity and environment, 
are being continually bought and sold, smuggled on steamers or 
over the boundary lines, has awakened an effort to abridge, if 
not actually suppress, this traffic, which prevails in all the heart- 
less cruelty which characterized that condition at the close of 
the Roman Republic. 

By the untiring and zealous efforts of a missionary lady, 
who has devoted nearly a score of years to ameliorating the 
condition of her sex, there have been rescued from brothels five 
hundred or more Chinese girls, whose ages range from nine to 
fifteen years, and the purchase price of whom aggregated over a 









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million dollars. They have been comfortably housed, their 
religious instruction fostered, their physical condition toned, and 
every possible effort enlisted to lift them up to a sphere of 
honor and usefulness. By the aid of these simple elements, the 
employment of time, with a certain customary and moral dis- 
cipline controlled by kindness, a great work has been done, 
and many of them are now the happy wives and mothers of 
pleasant homes. 

The law in regard to this slave traffic is specific and exact- 
ing ; but there is a spirit prevalent in this neighborhood which 
the French call " Pesprit de localzte" which often warps the 
judgment of the most upright and honest men, and when, by 

the assistance of legal techni- 
calities, this spirit is coupled to 
a writ of habeas corpus proced- 
ure, to be subsequently investi- 
gated by the Federal courts, the 
law becomes elastic, and the 
W ~J| victim is permitted to land, to 
be as readily delivered to some 
execrable hag of moral uncon- 
sciousness and indifference of 
^s_^ ->^q^u__ f ee iing, of insolent manners 




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and savage temper, for a moneyed consideration varying from 
five hundred to four thousand dollars, according to the girl's 
age and personal attraction. 

Should the child be one of tender years, she is now made 
to perform menial drudgery, and is frequently treated not only 
unkindly, but cruelly. At maturity the slave girl becomes more 
valuable. Here for a time she is kept under strict surveillance ; 
her avocation and environment leave no opportunity for intel- 
lectual effort. She is bedecked with gaudy trinkets, zealously 
guarded, and now begins a slavery of many years and of a 
fiercer kind. Her mind generally is dethroned under her former 
treatment, and she generally subserves the will of her owner. 
The best part of her life is wasted amidst unfriendly and 
degraded companions ; she finds l no comfort in life, nothing to 
love, nothing to hope for; family and friends are to her as 
though they were not, and very few, if any, have any recollec- 
tion whatever of parents or relations. 

It is not indeed strange, when the door is .closed and 
the key turned on these deluded creatures in a strange land, 

that they occasionally awake from their terror to a realism of 

- 

the condition which deprives them of bodily and mental free- 
dom, and attempt to break from this bondage and flee at the 
peril of their lives to the refuge home provided for them by a 
kind and humane association. 













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Whenever it becomes known that there is a girl of 
legal age thus environed, efforts are made to ascertain 
the opinion she entertains as to the desirability of her 
removal. It is known that, in their powerless and help- 
less condition, so much insincerity has been forced 
upon them, and such frightful pictures presented to 
their ignorant minds of the brutalities and enslavement 
practiced by Christians, that it becomes necessary to 
free her mind from these prejudices, as initiatory measures to 
a successful rescue. A careful diagram of the building is made, 
and every known avenue of escape guarded, when a raid is 
attempted, and the rescue party, under police surveillance, 
ultimately removes the trembling victim from her surroundings, 
amid a crowd of infuriated "high-binders," human hyenas, 
whose fierce anathemas and savage threats fill the air. Fre- 
quently, however, notwithstanding all of these carefully planned 
measures, the victim is quickly spirited away through some 
secret trap or panel leading into an underground or overhead 
network of passages, to be again secreted until the rescue is 
abandoned or given up in despair. 

There is something of interest to be learned in every square 
foot of these old precincts. For years I thought I knew all 
that there was to know about this quarter, but every additional 




some new interest ; and the traveler 
who simply pays a flying visit here has only sipped, not drunk, 
at this fountain. He must explore for himself the various 
regions of interest, which will open to him a boundless source 
of wonder and study ; for in this, one of the finest parts of the 
town, and the oldest district, occupying, I may say almost 
profaning, in many respects, its once stately homes, is deeply 
intrenched and emphasized a condition of society and civiliza- 
tion of which its adaptability to circumstances is our marvel, 
and the fruit of thousands of years of abnegation and Oriental 
estrangement. 

There are no words wherein to describe, no measure 
wherewith to measure, the subtleties and eccentricities which, 
living constantly in a thickly settled section like this, and 
among these people, is apt to generate, where so many people 
are crowded into so little room, where the aggregate of suffer- 
ing must be multiplied by every individual tale of woe; yet 
how unlike the east side of New York, the tenement districts 
of London or of Paris. The traveler here can go where he 
listeth, and at whatever hour he pleaseth. He is not disturbed 
by beggars nor by drunken brawls ; nor is he liable to the 
dangers which bestrew his path among Christians in either 
of the places mentioned. He is free from molestation, ridicule 










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|||p^jg^ anc * banter ; and, from all that we have seen, he 




will find on the whole a personally clean, 
sober, sagacious and industrious people. 

^^^S^< MIT 1 • ■ t • 1 1 

i^zjrssr^ " No I Let this section be as wicked and 

as malodorous as the reports make it 

to be; let the viscious be as thick and 

the taste for the meretricious and artificial be as apparently 

uppermost : the lovers of goodness are many ; the supporters 

and seekers for what is pure and right are the substantial bulk 

of these people." 

William Walter Bode. 





PROCESSION OF "WONG FONG" (THE DRAGON). 



PRCSS OP 

H. ». CROCKER COMPANY. 

•AN FRANCISCO. 



